Departures and Arrivals

Well, we are here in France. And have unpacked. No mean feat in itself, the house is still standing. The garden is very green, although it has to be said it’s a building site anyway. We have got the fire going now and everywhere is slowly getting warm. After five empty months it takes time to permeate the stone. After running about saying Hi to all our friends and neighbours we start work on Monday. I’m redoing the bathroom of our friend Pascal and his wife Martine, everything is in place.

The ferry trip is always an opportunity to sit and people watch, as they pace like caged animals with no escape. Shops that no longer have duty-free bargains since the EU was formed, and little in the way of adult amusement. Only the bar and onboard restaurant. The crossing was choppy, the weather rainy and windy. So strolling about the deck was out. Although leaving Portsmouth was fine, later as we crossed the Channel itself it got much worse.

Leaving England

Leaving England

Sunset

Sunset

Chased by the clouds

Chased by the clouds

Rain on Deck

Rain on Deck

We always enjoy the time on the boat, six hours of doing nothing, just reading and relaxing. We no longer rush from place to place, we stay in Ouistraham overnight. Drive down to the Auvergne the next day, much more civilised.

Ghost ship

Ghost ship

Ouistraham, harbourside

Ouistraham, harbourside

You can see the Night crossing boat from here. They arrive at about six in the morning, while we were tucked up in bed, a much better option.

Le Phare

Le Phare

The lighthouse, at night it is lit up, sweeping through the room like clockwork, very atmospheric. The drive was uneventful and safe, arriving back is good. The next shot is from our balcony. Even though there is work still to be done, there is a lot that is good, and we can enjoy all we have.

The View from here

The View from here

Soon it will be time for the first barbecue of the season. See you all there.

Enjoy your travels and take your time to enjoy the view on the way.

Cars and Boats and Roads and Things

Well, after a hectic family weekend, we head south to The Auvergne, France tomorrow. Catching the afternoon ferry to Caen. The weather looks to be an Easterly breeze so the crossing may be rough.

We shall spend a night in Ouistreham then follow our tried and trusted route home. It’s been five months, I’m expecting big things from the garden! Three weeks then a trip back here – a week – home to France again. then who knows.

Travelling, out and about. What else could we do?

The Road Forward

The Road Forward

Moving between places always causes a disjointed few days, as we settle from one country to the next. Moments of confusion while we re-adjust to the new space we have.



Discord

The unsettled music of a moment.
Movement in the air, in the mind.

Unwanted changes to the silence
that surrounds a thought, the missed

word, balanced in the chaotic wind.
Asymmetry of waves in the air,

the stone making and spreading ripples,
reflecting from a rock, changing

the surface. Reflections scattered,
distorted by movement.

No subtle harmony will ever lift
this symphony from the noise.

1st December

Today we packed the car. Tomorrow we say bye to our friends, Saturday we head north to the ferry and Christmas with the family. Fair warning, we are on our way. I always believed that packing was an art. Now, each time we prepare to leave, we say to ourselves “only the essentials” when the open boot lid hits the bridge of my nose, I know the car is full. But the temptation to fill the space is almost too much. Our car works hard for its money, it is a working beast, not pretty, useful and does what we need it to do. We will cross half of France, get the ferry Sunday morning, then be home Sunday night to watch the football. (The kids will, I’m sure, object to this plan)

I have posted off two competition entries this month, so we shall see what becomes of them in the New Year. One requiring more than one poem, occupied some time as I ferreted about in my writing folder making choices, we shall see.

For now, a brief trip across France, soon we should have the time to take the back roads. It is Autoroutes with the comfort of steady speed and light traffic. We arrive relatively fresh and in good spirits, mostly.

The car is as full as it has ever been, more things to be returned to England. This time, we are taking paint back to the UK, a first in seven years of renovating houses in France. It is just before six in the morning, not my best time of day, when the dark and the damp make the final checks worse than normal. Water off, lights off, doors locked, a list we are now fairly good at organising between ourselves. Leaving Rilhac should be simple, catching up with the family, seeing friends and Christmas shopping.

Soon we bump along the back roads through fields clear and ready for winter. Misty water coats the windscreen, enough to be a pain, not enough to need the wipers. When we hit the main road there is a mental line crossed. The point of no return. If we have forgotten anything now it is too late and we won’t be going back for it. Passports and tickets being the last check we make before driving off. The headlights make grey out of the darkness, not much of an improvement but better.

We have four hundred miles to cover before we make Ouistraham and the ferry to Portsmouth. For this early start there is nothing of the mountains to see except black shapes beside the motorway, so we listen to an audio CD, a background sound that passes the miles, comfortable above the rumble of travel. Dawn slides down the hill as we start the long descent into the Allier region.

We passed Clermont Ferrand, its black cathedral and the jelly shaped lump of the Puy de Dome a while back still under cover of low cloud. Now as the sun clears the mist a little, leaving just rain we can see a bit more of the passing French countryside. We are leaving the high ground of the Massif Central, foothills compared to the Alps but still a beautiful place to explore, and we drop about 300m to the Allier. This is the point when we think that’s it, we’ve left. And the point on the return journey when the end is in sight. The Aire du Volcans has one of the best views along the famous Chain des Puys along to The Puy de Dome after which the region is named.

The hills are lower now, rolling through the Centre, past Bourge, Vierzon and then a left turn towards the Loire valley and Tours. It always amazes me how much the scenery changes, and as we cross some of the biggest rivers in time passes quickly. We do two-hour stints at the wheel. A throwback to travelling with Rosie dog, who we lost last year. But taking the time, coffee breaks and snacks make for more enjoyable and less tiring travel.

After Tour, we again head north and pass by Le Man with its 24hr circuit. The services here has one of the sports cars in the lobby. We are getting closer now and as we start seeing signs for Caen, we also start to see the directions to Commonwealth and American war cemeteries. A reminder of the 6th of June, when so much was given by soldiers from around the world. Normandy and we start to smell the sea. Ouistraham, the ferry port, fishing boats. We can almost smell the fish and chips now. In the local bar though, I opt for moule frite. Fresh and done well it is one of my favourite foods. After it’s time for the hotel and bed, ready for the boat in the morning.

Next time I write, we will be in England and building up to Christmas.

I like this time of year, don’t you?

Italy and Venice

After leaving Balaton and Hungary behind, we crossed Slovenia and returned to Italy. Our final destination, Venice. We arrived a about 6 in the evening and started hunting for a hotel. Maybe we should have booked something? In the end it was OK as we found a hotel just of the causeway. A bit old and careworn but still enough glamour to make you feel good. Then a bus in to the centre for a stroll round Venice by night and some Italian spaghetti. It was a lovely warm night calm and with none of the hustle of the day.

Venice by night

Venice by night

Sunday on the other hand was not a day of rest, we started with a water bus trip around the outside of Venice, to see another side, where the sea and the city met. Getting off at St Marks Square we hit the mass of people, queueing standing taking pictures, and of course spending money. There is without a doubt some beautiful buildings there, and walking of the main streets is the best way around. Forget the maps and get yourself lost. Find some small coffee shops, some obscure squares. That is where you see Venice for what it is.

St Marks Square, detail.

St Marks Square, detail.

Venice, detail.

Venice, detail.

Venice Architecture.

Venice Architecture.

We did of course take a water bus along the Grand canal, walked across the Rialto Bridge, and had ice cream. All the things a proper tourist should do. On a hot day, the crowds and the noise. We wandered and strolled through a city of history. Soaking up the ambience found there.

Small Square in Venice.

Small Square in Venice.

Back Streets

Back Streets

Café Culture.

Café Culture.


It is coffee that we crave though, so we sat a while and watched everyone on their way somewhere else. Dinner by the canal, and a look into some bookbinders and paper-makers. Beautiful leather-bound notebooks, diaries and address books. Made by hand with care and such attention to the finish.

Handmade books

Handmade books

After a long day in Venice it was time to head off again, we drove through to Milan, on route to Briancon, in the Alps. A boring Sunday night made exhilarating by the Italian drivers who all want your space, your car, and treat the motorway as a personal challenge to get to the head of the queue. It was a shell-shocked pair who pulled of the road to sleep in a small hotel seen from the motorway. We were well on our way home, and still having fun. Next up will be mountains and passes and a town called Briancon, a fascinating walled town, overlooked by several forts.

Italy and the Alps

We are holed up in a hotel near Bergamo, after crossing the Alps and driving through a thirteen kilometer tunnel. A shame we don’t have the time to visit some of the high passes at the moment but we hope to on the return trip. Traffic was bad around Milan, but we had a meal in a small village called Stezzano. Our first Italian night out, pizza on a village square. Tomorrow we head to Lake Garda, and will decide whether to stay overnight or carry on for a bit. Depends on the weather and how we find the area. Very friendly so far, and fantastic sights as we drove through the Alps. So a good start.

We are loaded with books to read and have the time to enjoy the driving so it is looking good for the holiday.